Escaping to an alternate reality with fashion
- Ameya Vitankar
- Apr 11, 2024
- 7 min read
DEMYSTIFYING FASHION
In this series of blog posts, I aim to demystify the fashion world for both you and me. I do so by focusing on random elements of the fashion industry that specifically pique my interest- such as menswear, technology, finances, politics, and increasing globalization.
I don’t want this to be an account on surrealism- but defining and contextualizing it first is important- so let me do it briefly. Tate defines the word as a “literary, philosophical, and artistic movement that explores the workings of the mind, championing the irrational, the poetic, and the revolutionary”. Scouring through definitions of this word online brought me to etymological roots like “psychological, moving, magical, thought, freedom, fantasy, dream, unconscious”… you get it. But what exactly is surrealism?
I have found that it is one of those words, which like art itself, is subjective. What surrealism is is actually up to you- which is what attracted me to it.
I used to think of it is as a genre strictly confined to visual art- until I realized that there are some basic elements of it that I keep encountering in music, film, pop culture, fashion, poetry, and even literature. For example, the theme song of the White Lotus might be considered ‘surrealist’- it has those elements of strangeness, awe, and elicit those emotions of confusing attraction (and why did we listen to that song 200 times?)
Historically, surrealism grew out of the World Wars in Europe, where this art was purposefully produced to defy reason and logic. In a world of increasing rationalism that ultimately led to a horrific war, the public fixation on holding on exclusively to reality and logic went down the drain, and a need for a fictional escape became more necessary. Furthermore, advancements in psychology and the birth of Freudian theory and psychoanalysis brought about drastic social changes in the way we think about thinking, and what we make out of the world around us.
While this traditional definition may be confusing, and even to an extent confining - I’ve found peace in thinking of surrealism as this concept of something that is almost fantastical and dream-like, but still rooted in reality. I think we are conditioned to think of shock and surprise as an almost negative emotion, but the truth is that the unexpected and automated can elicit a lot of curiosity, which in itself can be a positive and fulfilling learning experience. It’s when you are open to that learning that the magic happens. So I add that to my definition of it- it is something that elicits an emotion that is typically considered unwanted.
In the world of fashion, surrealism has been a driving force since its inception. Creating pieces that shock, inspire, or cause negative emotion to the viewer is a form of abstract expressionism that is specific to the niche of fashion. The meat dress that Gaga wore back in the 2000s (that made you go ughhh) can be considered surrealist. The recent trash bag inspired gowns that Balenciaga put out as part of its revivalist efforts can also be considered surrealist (again, up to you). But the classic, most renowned house that has rooted and plunged itself in this world of surrealism has to be Schiaparelli (on a side note, I do think that surrealism only became more global in the 90s, and more mainstream only recently- so a lot of the older roots in fashion are unfortunately strictly limited to European design houses.)
Surrealism is not just necessarily the visual effect with fashion- but also the choices you make with the material, the embroidery, the print, the meshing of the cloth, and the garment choice itself. Using leather for a summery dress- an unconventional, bizarre, and hilarious choice- is an example of surrealist fashion. Elsa Schiaparelli, the founder of the house, did this by challenging what the definition of a dress was.
Incorporating elements from the world of circus, living in the age of Calder and other abstractionists; Schiaparelli was able to create a colorful escape for herself amongst her wealthy, out-of-touch peers
Eventually working directly with connoisseurs like Salvador Dali himself gave her a unique vision, which she combined with her feminine outlook in a mostly male-dominated world, leading to magical and fantastical designs that pushed the envelopes of fashion. Creating the first dress that exposed a zipper, something that seems so ordinary today; or the skeletal dress, based on Dali's own sketches of skeleton-men- the two seemed to be in undeniable unison- a symbiotic and passionate love affair that was purely artistic (or so we know).
A Schiaparelli perfume, inspired by elements of the underwater- a perfume bottle like this won't be sold but rather archived as a piece of art
The skeletal men sketched by Dali alongside Schiaparelli's designs for the 'skeleton-dress'
Looking at some of the archives of the house historically, it almost seems like the changes in current events correlate with the level of 'weirdness' in design. The more stressful or restrictive a time period was, the more awe-inspiring and groundbreaking the clothes became (or maybe the need for the attention to be diverted increased). Most recently, this can be seen with the famous lion-head dress that Kylie Jenner wore, right after the pandemic in a time of wartime politics and general chaos. While it can be argued that Jenner herself might not know the underlying statement of what she was wearing (not the point of this essay and yes that was a little shady), the choice of her to be the face of that outfit ironically reflects the hypocrisy of society, since it did exactly what was intended- create hype and noise. But you have to dig deeper than what you see.
Over time, the house of Schiaparelli has utilized a variety of techniques- like using weird shapes, hyperbolic buttons, 3D textures, robotic designs, a variety of inserts on ordinary clothing (such as animals, insects, and bugs), lots of eyes (which Elsa believed were a 'gateway to the soul'), astronomical designs, stars, flora- and so much more. Today, the brand symbolizes that free spirit and autonomy that drove it since the beginning- and I'd encourage you to look beyond what you see with the next outfit on the runway you see from them.
A classic Schiparelli dress (from https://www.dailyartmagazine.com/elsa-schiaparelli-art/)
With the rise in technology, and a renewed scientific interest in the extraterrestrial and alien worlds around us, there has been a recent integration of sorts of surrealism with futurism. Modern example of surrealism have involved this blend of techno-futurist escapism (a world where everyone will be free, and who they want to be), and traditional surrealism (the strange, inexplicable, humorous, and bizarre), and I have enjoyed watching this in fashion. Most recent examples of this are with the work that Indian designer Gaurav Gupta has been doing - a refreshing break from the heavy Eurocentrism around this genre.
Gaurav doesn't like to be put into a box. He calls his work 'future-primitive'- an amalgamation of his own Indian identity with a futuristic lens, as if you're viewing a runway show on a deserted planet. His designs are abstract, free flowy, and singular- as if you've taken a pencil and not put it down until the design is finished. His work may not typically elicit a 'shock' or 'disgust' reaction, but rather that of 'awe'. His inspirations come from astronomy and the celestial- almost mythical and ethereal places in his imagination where he feels 'freer' and 'less caged'. It's worth noting that for a lot of artists, surrealism is in itself an escape, since it provides a means to an alternate reality where there are no restrictions and more equity (which is why it's historically also been a politically charged instrument).
A classic Gaurav Gupta design (from https://seelemag.com/home/the-gaurav-gupta-ss24-couture-collection-through-pictures-runway)
His designs have been worn by numerous celebrities across the globe- but the core of what he builds on is using materials that are unconventional (such as hard rocks, crystals, or even pieces of metal) to build soft, feminine, graceful, and flexible couture. This composition in itself is ironic. He also relies on colors like black, white, red, and grey- colors you typically see in space, or a hacker's room- reminding you of that futurist vibe. And finally, the end product is not something you can wear to the office or at home- it is specifically designed to create that momentary awe, and archived immediately after. The whole work is purely a spectacle- a means to delivering a message which might not even have any meaning, unless you choose to assign it one.
I think the point of this essay is to make you realize that surrealism is pretty much everywhere. And it makes sense. Living in the age we are in today, there is an even larger need to escape to an alternate reality with a somewhat lesser weight on judgment. For example, I thought that Beyonce's Mugler suit in the opening of her Renaissance world tour was surrealist- she starts her show by taking her listeners to an alternate universe, where her listeners (with her focus being on the queer community) feel more free to express themselves. The movie The Menu (2023) - a movie which practically made no sense, but seemed like a larger commentary on high food culture- had elements of surrealism. This modern blend of futurism with surrealist identity is an exciting space- and I encourage you to notice the different ways that exchange shows up around you- whether it is in your favorite book, a TV show; or a song that you're listening to.
Beyonce, in Mugler (from PARKWOOD)
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References:
Pictures from a variety of sources online, including PARKWOOD Entertainment, Tate, Vogue, Google Images, Daily Art, and the New York Times.
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